The defensive coast
After the various kings and emperors got their collective and individual acts together, Cherbourg and surrounds grew small ports, big harbours and lighthouses to create a strong defensive barrier for the Atlantic coast. Behind that barrier, shipbuilding and a naval base grew. Most of the defences and navigation aids were built in the 19th century and have survived unscathed. The provincial and central governments have tried to build on these installations, the sea and the wild coast to create a tourism opportunity centred around local culture, outdoor adventures, walks, bike trails and climbing up lighthouses. We tried our hand at what was on offer.
Prévert and Millet
We set out in the direction of La Hague to see our first lighthouse, but on the way we decided on a whim to drop into a village called Gruchy (49°40′30″N 1°48′00″W) which on our guide was heralded as the birthplace of John François Millet, an artist who lived between 1814 and 1875 and was known as a member of the Realism Art School – he painted peasant farmers. His house has been turned into a museum and the whole town has been transformed by a high quality restoration project. It was not immediately apparent how the town made money, but plenty had been spent on the restoration. Impeccably done, tasteful and every detail accounted for right down to the stack of wood in front of the building and an excerpt from a Millet painting to announce the toilets.
John François himself prominently featured in the car park at the entry to town, but not as prominently as he may have done in the past.
It seems that sometime during WWII his statue was requisitioned by the occupying German army to be sent to the foundry to become raw materials for the much needed weapons and ammunition. By some negotiation or sleight of hand only the bottom two thirds left town and the bust remained and is now on display on a stone base.
We carried on to Ormonville la Petite (49°42′00″N 1°52′59″W) and found a similarly renovated and maintained town, but his time dedicated to Jaques Prévert a poet and script writer who moved into the town in 1970 and lived there until his death until 1977. He lived next door to his friend Alexendre Trauner, a stage designer. Both are buried in the local cemetery.
While Prévert only lived in Ormonville la Petite for seven years and Millet is at best medium level famous it is right to celebrate them. However, the level of effort going into preserve their memories seems over the top. To understand what I mean, consider that the building in the group of photos above is a toilet block in the middle of a car park, built of local stone, decorated regularly with flowers and immaculately clean (remember this is France).
We started to think there was a coordinated campaign set up for the tourists and it was confirmed when we visited the art gallery in Cherbourg the next day to find it co-located with the library named after Prévert and found the bust of Millet prominantly displayed along with several of his works in the gallery.
Nonetheless, they were pretty towns, and it was good to see the high quality restoration and the maintenance of the communities supported by quite a few tourists. The toilets were also good.
Phare de La Hague
49° 43′ 15″ N, 1° 57′ 16″ W
We found our first lighthouse (Phare to the locals) on the northwest corner of the peninsular. This one was a little way out into the water, so we did not have the opportunity to climb it or even touch it. This area here is not far from the Channel Islands and it experiences strong currents and a large tidal range making shipping hazardous. The lighthouse was completed in 1837 and is now automated.
Around the corner is what has become known as Le Nez de Jobourg which is claimed as the second most visited place in the Manche départerment of Normandy after Mont Saint-Michel. I think there is a big gap between first and second judging by the panorama at the top of this page showing the Nez and the picture below, both of which are completely untouched by people.
Phare de Carteret
49° 22′ 25″ N, 1° 48′ 24″ W
Down the Western coast of the peninsular about 30km from the previous lighthouse, is the Phare de Carteret which was built in 1839 and suffered the indignity of automation in 1976. Its main function was to guide ships into the local port.
We did climb to the top, although it was only a short way. We met a freelance photographer who was taking pictures for the local paper for a feature on the lighthouses. We found the spiral staircase, and the lights close up and of course panoramic views of the coast.
A good lighthouse experience to add to the collection.
Cap Levi and its Phare (lighthouse)
49° 41′ 45″ N, 1° 28′ 23″ W
On the next day we headed east along the coast of Contentin and found ourselves in Cap Levi. It looks like a calm and beautiful place, but its history includes the sinking of a submarine while on sea trials in 1937; the destruction of the lighthouse during the 1944 landings; an accident killing of five sailors in 1997 when they were dumping expired munitions in the Cap Levi trench; visits by the Duke of Normandy / King of England and his court in 1177; roman settlements and Viking raids. So, it is little wonder that Napoleon III chose this spot for a defensive small harbour and a lighthouse to guide local shipping in 1858.
If you want to understand that this is a serious place you only have to observe the picnic table provided for visitors.
It is so windy and exposed that they had to put it into a hole for protection! We passed on an outdoor morning tea.
Napoleon III’s small harbour is still in great shape despite its history. The boats up on the mud and the water marks on the breakwater are a good indication of how large the tidal range is in this part of the world.
The lighthouse, despite its restoration post war, retains its 19th century look. When I google Phare de Cap Levi, I discover I have fallen into the trap of taking the classic photos of this lighthouse. Must try harder! This is what it looks like:
St Pierre Eglise
49°40′09″N 1°24′10″W
On the way to the next lighthouse along the coast we made a short detour to St Pierre Eglise.
When a town has a church in the name, the church must be special – and it is!
While the origins of the building are in the 12th century, the main structure was completed in 1658 to cater for the growing and prosperous population. The new church was built around the belfry and the core of the original building, which is why the main building and the belfry don’t seem to match.
After the building was ransacked in 1794 – the revolution came late to St Pierre Eglise – rented out for a year and then slowly rehabilitated over the next 30 or so years, the belfry was raised higher and modified to reflect the modern world. The church interior dates from mid-19th century.
A feature of this church which I have not seen before is the “Perque” – the support for the Crucifix which spans the whole width of the building. It seems to be a local design feature as it appeared in other churches in the area which we saw later that day.
Barfleur
49°40′16″N 1°15′48″W
You will remember Barfleur from the previous post as the competitor to Cherbourg when it comes to launching the Norman Conquest of Britain. Given its size it seems an unlikely place, but things have changed a lot since 1066 so who am I to judge?
It is built behind another of Napolean III’s defensive ports which looks similar to that at Cap Levi except that this one had water and boats that floated in it. Not all of the boats appear to be of local origin.
One thing that caught my attention was the church. Like St Pierre Eglise it had a “Perque” which made me think it was a local design element. In addition the church yard held a memorial to the soldiers who had fallen in the first and second world wars. This was a feature of the St Pierre Eglise church yard as well. Why is it worth noting? With the strict separation between Church and State in France I have never seen war memorials located in churches or church yards. For that matter I have never seen a Norman flag or a French flag flying atop a church tower. This part of Normandy seems to have departed from that tradition of separation. It could be the long dominance of the navy around this area from 1066 onwards; it could be the general lack of enthusiasm for the revolution which was common around these parts or it could be that this area bore the brunt of the D-Day landings. Whatever it is, it is unusual.
I am not surprised that Barfleur is focussing its tourist credentials on William the Conqueror – I doubt that their beach resort strategy really took off.
Phare de Gatteville
49°41′47″N 1°15′57″W
The whole lighthouse chasing expedition was just a preparation to the greatest one of all – The Phare de Gatteville. It is located not far from Barfleur on a small peninsular on the North Eastern extremity of Le Contentin. What can you say about it? Built in five years and opening in 1834 it is an impressive 75m in height with a base diameter of 9.25m. We climbed the 365 steps to the top and were then shocked to discover that the original illumination was by coal fire which required 600kg of coal to be carried up to the top every day. At 60kg per load – and that is a heavy load – that is ten trips per day or a total of 3,650 steps or 750m straight up. My achievement of reaching the top once seemed a little weak in the light of that information. I was however glad to be there to see the panaromic view of La Manche and to see down the coast and into the underwater rock formations through surprisingly clear seawater.
The lenses at the top were impressive as were the old lenses on show at the base. I could have saved the effort of making the climb!
I regard myself as a fan of Le Phare de Gatteville, but not in the class of Mr Yves Osmond who produced a 1/77 scale model of the lighthouse built with 15,500 matches, pictured. On the other hand, I think I at least match the enthusiasm of his wife who was likely the one who encouraged him to donate it to the lighthouse management.
Reflection
I have travelled to Normandy many times to visit family, the Normandy D-Day Landing Sights, Mont Saint Michel and a host of little villages, and some not so small. Contentin – Cherbourg and the region – is so different to the rest of Normandy it is almost impossible to think of it as the same province. The region has traditionally been considered as industrial, wet, windy and uninviting. The uniqueness of the area makes it worthwhile and, in some places surprising and ruggedly beautiful.
I was pleased to visit, but now it is time to board the ferry for Ireland and just in time by the look of that sky!
Goodbye Cherbourg.
